Tuesday 16 December 2014

Photo Journal: Taiwan 7-8.2014 (Part 2)



The east coast of Taiwan, preserved with plenty of arable farmlands, is a major food basket for the population. The rice fields produce the best quality grains that impress the choosiest connoisseurs. Due to the continuous barrier of steep mountains dividing the island, the counties along the east rely on agriculture and tourism to sustain their economy. For urban dwellers who want to make a quick exit to the countryside, this stretch of land is their favorite back garden to spend the weekend.

台灣東部迄今還保留著大量耕地,是整體人口的重要糧倉。這裡生產優質稻米,連最饞嘴的都讚好。由於連綿的山巒分隔這島嶼,東岸的縣市依靠農務及旅遊業維持經濟。城市人若想快閃至郊外,這片後花園無疑是不二的週末首選。


Haulien City 花蓮市


Without public transport, Haulien is accessible on foot or by bicycle for most visitors. Nanbin Seashore Park is about one km from the city centre, which faces the Pacific Ocean and links up with other scenic spots.
 在沒有公共交通配套下,花蓮的旅遊大多以步行或騎單車為主。「南濱公園」距市中心約一公里,行人步道面對太平洋與其他景點相連。


Strolling in night market is a pastime en masse after hiding away from the sun in the day. Far at the distance lies a formidable chain of mountains, the highest of which is Mount Qilai at 3607m.
炎熱白天過後,逛夜市是眾人喜愛的消遣節目。遠方聳入雲霄的山脈的頂點為「奇萊主峰」,離海拔有3607米高。


Under a light breeze, love is the reason for being 
along the coast in this quiet town.
在這恬靜小城,此刻微風騷動,愛是存在的唯一意義。


My wife and I had a soft spot for A Zhi Bao” due to its earthy cuisine and décor. Contradictory to my professional instinct to stay clear of building hazards – tremendous fire risk from the untreated timber structure, we went there twice for dinner.
 "阿之寳"的樸實菜肴及裝飾,是太太與我的心頭好。裡面未經防火處理的木構造雖然有違自己的專業直覺反應,我們還是造訪了兩次。


Proliferated in many cities as urban regeneration projects, the Cultural Industries Park has been salvaged from an old distillery plant recently. Handicraft shops and eateries fill up 
most of the premises.
「花蓮文創園區」一如眾多雨後春筍的城市活化項目,從廢棄的酒廠更生過來。大部份的原有廠房已由手工藝及食店替代。


Situated atop a hill on the eastern outskirts, Pine Garden has a commanding view of the city and the ocean. An exhibition of poetries and lyrics was on display but visitors seemed to prefer 
natural sightseeing better.
「松園别館」位處市郊東面山丘上,擁抱無際城市及海灣風景。館中巧遇民初詩詞展覽,但遊人還是沉醉於這兒的自然風光。


Behind the garden and built by the Japanese against the Allied Forces lies a WWII air raid shelter. It was preserved and intently decorated for visitors.
在園後有一所二次大戰由日本建造,抵禦盟軍的防空洞。保存得值以外,它還刻意裝飾給遊人參觀。


With a clothed model of a Japanese soldier holding a V sign and photographs of wine taking before the kamikaze attacks, it was baffling to fathom on the mentality behind this set-up. 


裡面無論是穿上日軍制服的模型,做出勝利手勢、甚至神風特攻隊出擊前的酒祭照片都令人百思不解這些裝置之目的。


A light that kindles many thoughts.
一顆教人思索的燈光。


(imagewww.attractionsintaiwan.com)

After Typhoon Matmo hit the island and caused heavy disruptions to school and business activities in July, Taroko Gorge was closed for all visitors including us. It is a known fact that eroded stones fall off from high points and result in injuries.


在七月底,颱風「麥德姆」侵襲台灣時,所有商業及學校活動停頓了。就連我們想到的太魯閣亦關門大吉。無他,這國家公園不時有大石墜落,傷及遊客。


(imagewww.blog.sinovision.net)

The breath-taking mountain drive along Suhua Highway is an alternative to Highway One in California, US. One can hire a taxi for a half-day excursion there; or as we did, kept a look-out between the tunnels in the train along the coast.


蘇花公路的「清水斷崖」與美國南加州的一號公路之沿岸風光同樣令人驚嘆。如果不想租車遊覽,可以好像我們不停探頭往外觀望亦算感受一二。



Yilan City 宜蘭市


The statue of Sun Yat-sen, the founding father of the new China per se, at Zhongshan Park might need some dusting and weed-picking. The bronze work is lucky to survive as the one in Tainan had been pulled down in February amid political bickering.
市內「中山公園」裡的孫中山像,雜草及泥濘確實需要處理一番。但考慮到台南的孫像在二月因政治糾紛而被推倒的前科,這塑像之可以存在亦算走運。


Taiwan is not embarrassed to restore the relics of its former colonial ruler – Japan, in fact there is a population sector that is still attached to this past. A visit to the Memorial Hall of former Yilan government might shed light on this phenomenon. The argument goes that the governance by Kuomintang with the US consent had not been particularly humane in the past.
台灣並不介意保育前殖民中主國 - 日本所留下的遺跡;事實上,部份人對這段歷史眷戀依然。有空造訪「宜蘭治設紀念館」的話,便可領會多少。辯方的論述往往指,在美國默許下的國民黨政權亦不見得仁厚。


The National Centre for Traditional Arts has a cocktail display of arts and crafts. Some of the traditional skills such as copperware making can hardly be seen elsewhere. The extraordinary array of activities more than justifies the value of the entrance ticket.
「國立傳統藝術中心」不愧是民間藝術共冶一爐的大攢盒。部份陳列的工藝如打銅作業更是鮮見。裡面各式各樣的展品及活動所收費用絕對是物超所值。


Running the risk of bad taste by style-conscious readers, 
the puppet show – organized by the centre, is a colorful lesson 
to learn on southern living.
這個詐似品味低俗的木偶戲,可能冒犯潮人讀者,其實它是淺嚐南部生活的課堂。


Adjacent to the railway station with a steam locomotive running wild, Diu Diu Dong Forest (2001-07) is a covered plaza designed by Huang Sheng-yuan, who makes Yilan his architectural base. The massive steel structure forms a gathering focus of the park dedicated to the cartoon characters by Jimmy – an equivalent of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who created Le Petit Prince.
「丟丟噹森林」位處火車站旁,懸掛着飛翔半空一列蒸汽路軌車。它的有蓋廣場是植根宜蘭的黃聲遠建築師設計。這個巨型鋼結構以幾米人物為題,不斷吸引人流,成為公園的聚焦。


Luodong 羅東市


Towards the south-west in a green setting is Ludong Cultural Workshop (1999-2012) – again designed by Huang and his team Fieldoffice Architects. 
在市中心西南以郊的「羅東文化工場」(1999-2012) 同樣是黃聲遠及他的「田中央工作群」設計。

The project took two stages to complete: first – the canopy structure and second – the exhibition building years later. The complex as its bold configuration suggests exemplifies a matching degree of a sheer determination from the designers and funders.

此項目經兩個階段復可完成: 一,天篷結構;二,良久才蓋好的展覽建築物。文化工場強而有力的造型與設計師及籌建團隊的決志仿佛互相輝映。


 With an open access leading to the rooftop deck, the public seems to enjoy every nook and cranny in-between.
公眾享受通往屋頂層的休憩平台及其中形狀各異的空間。


The improvised-looking architecture maintains a tolerable stand-off with the buildings nearby, thanks to the large setback provided by the dividing road and car park.
這貌似即興湊合的作品與附近建築不一,但保持兼容局面,全靠寬闊的車道分隔。


The 18m high sunshade overlooking Ludong New Woodsland is 
a favorite hub of events and casual gatherings.
18米高的遮陽飽覽「羅東新林埸」,是大型活動及市民休嬉的首選地方。





(imageswww.walkarc.com)


Floor plan, section and elevation.
平面、立面及剖面圖。


Jiaosi 礁溪


Almost every other hotel in this town offers hot spring on the bathtub. There are plenty of choices for every pocket. 
鎮內的酒店多半提供溫泉設施。不管個人消費能力,選擇委實多的是。

Hotel Royal (above), so the name rightly suggests, is a class above the rest. Instead of pampering on hot spring, we took a buffet lunch that served rural seafood with degrees of sophistication. Suggestion: There are free shuttles taking customers from Taipei to arrive in good shape.


「礁溪老爺酒店」 - 顧名思義,除了是規模老大哥它亦是鎮内最高格調一家。我們到這兒不是為了溫泉,而是享用它既充滿魚村風味且豐盛的自助餐。建議如下:這酒店提供開自台北的免費穿梭服務,保證身心舒泰。


The design of Lanyang Museum (2010) successfully merges the architecture with the local cuesta landform. 
「蘭陽博物館」的設計成功地讓建築與附近的鬣丘地形相互融合。

The building overlooking the mangrove landscape.
從建築物高處眺望紅樹林風光。

Even though the brief requires a heap of floor areas for exhibition purpose - resulting in a daunting task for most visitors, the solution offered by the architect - Kris Yao does not override the surrounding yet manages to make a statement readable by all.


雖然設計大綱要求大量展覽空間,導致這裡面積略大 - 訪客需注意展品多得著。建築師姚仁喜構思的方案沒有壓倒四周環境之勢;普羅大眾更可從造型裡,閱讀到作品背後的理念。


It takes a full-day visit just to browse through 
the house of Kebalan culture.
不花上一天時間,沒法完成瀏覽所有館內的「噶瑪蘭」文化展品。


(imagewww.gaoloumi.com)


Museum situated at the edge of artificial lake facing the ocean.
博物館身處人工湖旁,面對海洋。


Su-ao 蘇澳 




With its rarity in nature duly noted, the cold spring at Su-ao Township is a must-try no matter the weather. At 22̊c, the bubbly mineral bath was invigorating despite my initial hesitations. Private rooms were alternatives to the public bath (photo above), but the shoddy facilities had to be overcome.


不管天氣怎樣,蘇澳的冷泉總是要試一試。雖然自己有點猶疑,泡完這礦物泉水以後確是精神抖擻。若不喜歡公共浴池,這裡有私人房間,唯其整體設施尚需改善。




Slightly north on Wai-ao beach, the famous sight of dark fine grains attracts photo calls from tourists around the world. They are the remnants of volcanic ashes deposited over the millennia. The coastlines of surrounding districts are exceptional popular with surfers and other water sports enthusiasts.


往北不遠的外澳沙灘,烏溜溜的幼沙吸引世界各地遊人前來。這些沙子是千百萬年的火山灰演化而成。除此之外,附近的海灣亦常常聚集沖浪者和各式水上運動愛好者。


The early evening beach with breaking waves is very agreeable although the waiting of train back to town afterwards is another matter.
黃昏的景緻加上海浪的拍岸聲確實令人叫爽,但呆著等車回去卻是另一回事。


Taipei City 台北市

The capital city is a multi-faceted metropolis that offers a diversity of attractions. There is no single aspect that captures the vibrant city lives or the charming backstreet shops, not to mention the historical trails or the nearby countryside. My fourth visit this time again represents a very narrow angle of snapshots.


作為首府,這個多元化的大都會擁有千嬌百媚的吸引力。沒有一個角度足以總結這個活力之都︰不單是它的迷人街巷、也不是它的歷史蹤跡、更非它的郊外美景。我的第四次造訪同樣只能反映一個很狹窄的照片紀錄。


At every turn of street corners, no matter it is the planting, shop front or even graffiti, Taipei brims with charms and surprises. On the photograph is a small eatery at Yung Kang Street – quintessential for such leisurely walk.
不管是盆栽、店面甚至塗鴉,台北的街角充溢雅趣及驚喜。照片上永康街的小食肆就是漫步其中的一隅。


If there is a contemporary need to present Buddhism, Water-Moon Monastery (2012) stands at the forefront of this movement. Again designed by Kris Yao, the religious complex and garden provide a pleasant environment even for casual visit. It is only off limits 
to wedding photo groups – notified so on a sign.
「法鼓山農禪寺」(2012)代表著新派展現佛教學說的佼佼者。同樣由姚仁喜構思的這所綜合建設,光是漫遊園中已屬樂事。帷獨婚紗攝影則是列明受禁止的活動。


The buildings are well detailed and finished. The monastery is particularly celebrated with sutra writings cast on walls or fenestrated to admit light. It might look formalistic on photos; 
but with the landscape garden and helpful volunteer staff, 
my inspired visit was joy for the day.
無論是設計細節及施工技巧兩個層次,建築物實屬淬鍊之作。不可不题是部份修道院外牆以金剛經文字作為窗戶裝飾更受矚目及讚譽。也許照片帶點形式主義之印象,但優美的「水月道場」和友善的志工令筆者既感悟亦快慰。


(imagewww.archdaily.com)

Layout plan of the monastery complex – it is only 
15 minutes away from the transit railway.
「法鼓山農禪寺」總平面圖 - 其位置與靠近的捷運站只有十五分鐘步行距離。


(imageJeffery Chen@www.krisyaoartech.com)

The grand hall of assembly.
寺院以大殿為核心


Young generations have gained better opportunity to learn their hidden past through the opening of Taipei 228 Memorial Museum in 1997. The establishment is part of the healing process for the nation; and every elected president since then would not hesitate to apologize to the people.
1997年後,年輕人從「台北二二八紀念館」這渠道揭開台灣不光彩的歷史。此項建設是整個國家對過往作孼療傷的重要部份;現今每個總統都就過去的管治向國民道歉。


Like those that have to come to terms with their shady past, the Taipei government is honest enough, though much belated, to face the misdeed committed after the violent suppressions of public revolts on February 28, 1947. In the following years, thousands of people from all sectors were persecuted to death for suspicion of communist affiliations. Many of those arrested were simply vanished without trace.
就像那些深藏不宣的過去,台北政府還是雖要面對以往的罪行,不管有多姍姍來遲 - 說的是1947228日和及後當時政府對民間反抗的暴力鎮壓。在短短幾年間,來自各階層的民眾因親共的指控下被殺的以千至萬計。很多被捕的甚至只能以失蹤人口告終。


Under the gaze is an untitled work by Wang Guo-ju with timber and brass tubes. The fateful date is marked on the ambiguously formed cross shape. 
王國柱的無名作品是由銅管及木塊組成。這個帶點曖昧的十字架狀雕塑著有那充滿宿命的日期。


(imagewww.designboom.com)

Computer rendering of TPAC – the conscious form-making effort deduced from the design does not earn much merit from critics. Some commented on architecture forums suggesting that Taiwan people deserve better quality work. But fact is fact, it is scheduled to be open in 2015.


TPAC的電腦效果圖顯示出來的刻意立體造形,反應以批評居多。在建築討論區,不少人直接說台灣人值得更高水平之建設。事實歸事實,它還是於2015年開幕。




I have a date with TFAM in every visit to Taipei. 


If OMA’s Taipei Performing Arts Centre (TPAC) is too cosmopolitan to obliterate regional identity, Taipei Fine Arts Museum (TFAM) – incorporating classical courtyard arrangement and ageing gracefully is one of my favorite haunts in the city. In fact, both are separated by a fifteen minute walk from each other.

如果「大都會建築事務所」創作的「台北表演藝術中心」(TPAC) 沒有彰顯在地的應有身份,「台北市立美術館」(TFAM) 裡隱藏的中式庭院設計及風霜感覺絕對是筆者在台的常到處。巧妙的是兩幢文藝建築只是相隔十五分鍾步距。


Cloud of Unknowing – A city of Seven Streets《未明的雲朶 - 一城七街》

To celebrate the 130th anniversary of the founding of the city, TFAM organized an exhibition to look into the discourse of city by different artists through a diversity of media. The following represents a selection of works for viewing.

為紀念台北市建城130年,台北市立美術館籌辦了上述展覽,由藝術家角度探視城市的本質及未來。這裡有部份較出色作品供分享。

Street of Scale 《尺寸街》


Joint work by Terunobu Fujimari, Jun Igarashi and Go Hasegawa. 藤森照信, 五十嵐淳, 長谷川豪

ROJO (Roadway Observation Study) is an interest group from Japan which casts spotlights on neglected everyday objects. The images on the walls and video shows in the typically Fujimari dungeon (timber structure at centre) attempt to raise these objects from obscurity.
日本的「路上觀察學會」(ROJO) 由一群同道人建立,以發掘受人忽略的尋常百姓事物為宗旨。牆壁上的照片和藤森照信設計之木屋內的錄像皆嘗試將這些瑣事呈現於眼前。


Go Hasegawa, Window Blinds. 長谷川豪 《百葉窗》

An enlarged installation of blinds screening a landscaped window: Hasegawa challenged us to see two sitters on a blade (slightly out of focus at left).
留意一下長谷川豪的百葉窗裝置:長谷挑戰大家有沒有發現百葉上的兩個坐者(位於左面且不聚焦)



Street of Learning - The Beautiful Future《美好的未來》 

A set of collaborated paintings, cynical yet funny, leaves more questions than answers.


憤世嫉俗之餘不失趣味的一系列協作畫所引發的問題多於答案。


Nick Bonner, Dominic Johnson-Hill and selected 
North Korean artists, KTV Gives Us a Voice, 2008.《練歌房, 人民的喉舌》


Nick Bonner, Dominic Johnson-Hill and selected
North Korean artists, Office Office Culture for Prosperity, 2008.《辦公室, 小康生活敲門磚》


Liu Kuo-chang, Fragile Ashes of Ink Landscape. 劉國滄, 殘片燼墨山水》





Ning OU, Street of Utopia. 歐寧, 烏托邦街 - 碧山計劃》




 Jay Chou, Street of Cloud - Unknowing Modernity. 《雲朶街》 邱文傑


For culinary fans, Dihua Street is an open museum of food ingredients. For architectural buffs, there are plenty of old buildings with unique facades to see. In recent years, cultural establishments and projects have sprung up in the district to allow visitors to explore on a variety of subjects.
對於烹調界來說,迪化街堪稱是海納百川的食材博覽館。對於保育迷,這裡集結很多獨一無二的舊"國民"建築。近年間,不少文化團體及項目皆在這鄰社生根,帶動人流及生氣。


At the fringe of the neighbourhood lies River Tamsui where transportation of foodstuff used to be brisk. Reconfigured in recent years as a public promenade, it was a memorable location to savour a tranquil sunset.
這社區的一旁是以前車水馬龍、食物運輸所依賴的淡水河。河岸現在已變身成為公眾步道,它的黃昏景緻足以讓人著迷。


Shifen 十分


Used to be a group of sleepy coal-mining villages threaded by an infrequent train service from Taipei, Shifen is now a mega destination for tourists wanting to escape from urban bustles.
十分及附近地方原本是細少的產煤村落,由火車通往台北。今天,它卻是超級旅遊重鎮,讓現代人忘掉城市繁囂。



Paper balloon lighting seems to be a mandatory activity for all. Nobody cares where and how they end up after the fuel is consumed. Virtue is definitely relative in time and place as 
forest fire does not seem to be a concern here.
放天燈無疑是這裡的指定活動。不管天燈最終在那裡或怎樣墮下,無人理會。人的德行其實跟時間和地域相對,森林火災在這裡仿佛不是什麼一回事。


Hop on, hop off – Ching Tung is the last stop of 
train rides that is closer to idyllic living.
不知不覺的上車及下車後,青桐是連串站頭最後亦是較寧靜的一個了。



A few notes: melody encounters 音樂隨遇

In the blazing heat of summer, lives take on more leisurely ways at night. Music making is plentiful and ubiquitous in the month of our visit.


在悶熱的炎夏,悠閒的生活在晚上隨隨展開。我們訪台的一個月內碰上不少音樂節目,有室內的、不少還是戶外的。


Street gag surrounded by an impromptu crowd in Hualien.
花蓮的街頭演奏吸引人群聚集。


Free-for-all jazz concert at Liberty Square, Taipei.
台北自由廣場上演的免費爵士樂音樂會。


Easy listening interspersed with chit-chat in Taichung.
在台中,悅耳的輕音樂配合多少家常話,一樂也。


Classical nourishment at Art Reading Café, Taipei.
台北「雅痞書店」內的咖啡館彌漫著古典音樂養份。


Another jazz concert at the attractive foyer of Lanyang Museum.
在「蘭陽博物館」內別致的大堂碰上另一個爵士樂表演。

  
A few notes: nice people 人物隨遇

Among others including a couple who shared their food with us, a family of joggers we chatted with on politics after asking for directions and a café owner who expressed huge passion for growing coffee in Taiwan, there were …


撇除讓我們分享他們食物的一對夫婦、與我們問路後談政論治的慢跑家庭及給我們一課咖啡種植的店主,這裡還有


The owners of Art Reading Café in Taipei, Mr. and Mrs. Chan earnestly asked me on the food quality after dinner with the intention of improving on every detail of their operation. Honestly it was one of the best meals I had in a month in Taiwan, let alone the good digs among the books and live recital to 
complete a nice evening.
用餐後,台北「雅痞書店咖啡館」的陳先生問及我對食物水平的評價,目的只持盡善盡美一念。事實上,這晚餐是個人在台其中最滿意之一頓飯。除此之外,在雅痞裡狩書和聽演奏更令人回味。


Waiting for the train to Yilan, I had a heartwarming chat with this 86 years old cyclist, who alerted me on the railway track whilst backpedalling for this photograph.
在宜蘭火車月台上,我有幸與這位八十六歲年壯單車手交流騎車瑣事。當我後退拍照時,他還提醒我注意路軌的高差。


The woman in pink was a member of Falun Gong (or Dharma Wheel Practice) – the religious cult that was banished in mainland China. We had a brief exchange of views to the effect that felt like a pat on each other’s shoulder. She gives handouts citing Communist persecutions of innocent individuals to mainland tourists, most of whom invariably pay visits to the Palace Museum.
穿粉色的女士是法輪功的成員。我們交換了一些見解;但在短短的數分鐘內,大家有一見如故之感。她在「台北故宮」門前以大陸遊客為對象,派發中共迫害人民的小冊子。這據點的選擇聰明地考慮了「台北故宮」幾乎是陸客必訪之處。


The tens of bikies in Yilan were members of TCFC (Taiwan Fund for Children and Families) who paraded in the street for a charity event. They were a cheerful lot, giving away V-signs and 
smiling incessantly.
在宜蘭街上巡遊的十多枚電單車是一群快樂的「家扶志工」。在拍照過程中,部份起勁的還不斷做出勝利手勢。


A few notes: food ventures 食物隨遇


How can anyone leave out food fares in Taiwan? The simplest yet achieving the best is Shandong Dumpling and Noodle – the “singular” name not to be missed in Taichung. TripAdvisor and Lonely Planet have many scores of plaudits on it.
來到台灣,哪裡可以將美食擱下去?令筆者念念不忘的店子卻是既簡單而上乘的「山東餃子牛肉麵館」。這台中小館在TripAdvisorLonely Planet的中外討論區獲得不少讚譽。


Food adventurers will have a brisk time in Taiwan. To balance the picture, this authentic seafood porridge joint in Lukang is one of the very few that is not agreeable to foreign taste buds like mine. Name withheld.
饕客來台肯定忙個不亦樂乎。或許在這兒需平衡一下此觀感,鹿港這家海鮮粥店乃非一般外來的味蕾懂得欣賞。店名不便公開。


Mr. Wu and his Wu Pao Chun Bakery is the proud son of Taiwan. His award-winning work of lychee rose bread simply takes flour to a new dimension. Love it!
吴寶春及他的麥方店堪稱是台灣值得驕傲的兒子。他的桂冠傑作 - 荔枝玫瑰麵包將麵粉提升到不一樣水平。真的愛極!


 It should not take long for me to return.
等不了,我肯定再回來的。



Gem discovery or converging towards mainstream - Taiwan has been listed to be among the 20 Best Trips by National Geographic in 2015.

這是瑰寶的發現還是推往主流的一步?台灣在《國家地理》雜誌被選為2015年內世界上二十個最佳旅遊地點其中一個。